I had quite a bit of sag in my driver door due to worn hinge pin bushings. I have had new pins and rollers for almost 5 years then it was about time I get off my duff and ready it. Since I accept to option my spots to work on my car when my 15 mo old daughter naps, it's difficult to coordinate getting help, so I tackled it myself.
With the door open up I had a stepstool that was right at the height of the door lesser. I used that to support the terminate and used my floor jack with a 2x4 to support the center. I advisedly dusted around the hinges at the door with some grey primer every bit a locator. I and then removed all of the hinge to door bolts except for an piece of cake ane to access. Equally I pulled the terminal ane I was able to support the door and set it aside with no damage done. I so could spray some light primer around the hinges on the trunk and then remove the hinges.
At a vice I was able to cut the one-time pins with a cutoff bicycle and tap them out each end. On my upper swivel the bushings were plastic and came out real easy. I tapped in the new bushings and inserted the new pin. I have heard of people putting locktite (for press fits, non threadlocker) on the pin to keep it from backing out, but I just put a minor bead of weld on the pivot body to keep it from backing out (non welding it to anything, just to put a burr on the pivot)
For the lower swivel, I removed the spring by prying out while covered in a towel. I removed the pin in the same style. I was also replacing the detent roller since mine was shot. I had to drill out the bottom, with a 1/2" drill bit only until you get to the hinge surface. I then drove the roller body out with a dial. To put the new one in I had to gently accept a cartridge roll to the large hole to open up it up a scrap (almost 15 thousandths). I tapped the new roller in. I splayed the bottom end by splitting it with a precipitous chisel. The hinge pin and bushings installed merely like the upper hinge. To re-install the spring, I used a hinge pin spring compressor that I had previously picked up for about $10. This tool is well worth the money!
I wiped the hinges down with Acetone to remove the primer. I bolted the hinges to the body and lined them up in the design left by the primer on the a-pillar. I then cleaned the a-colonnade with the acetone. I then positioned the door back onto the stool and the jack. This would have been a good spot for a helper if you lot accept nice pigment. I don't, but was still able to manage the door back on w/o scratching whatsoever pigment. I was able start the swivel bolts and draw the door in. Once aligned, I snugged all the bolts. Once again, I cleaned the door with Acetone to remove the primer overspray.
Before closing, I removed the striker and airtight the door. My door was actually a tad loftier in the back after fixing the hinges. I was able to loosen the swivel to trunk bolts (non really like shooting fish in a barrel with the door and fender installed) to drib the rear of the door and re-snug the bolts. In one case I was happy with the door fit, I loosely installed the striker. I airtight the door enough to sight where I thought the striker should go to get information technology shut. I and so wiped some grease on the striker to see if contact was high or low and fabricated fine adjustments until it was centered.
All in all information technology took me virtually an hour and fifteen minutes working at a methodical pace. No more than sag for that door. No more having to slam information technology shut or elevator every bit I am opening. 
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I know that washing and waxing my car with the nowadays condtion of my pigment is like polishing a turd.....but information technology'southward my turd and I want it polished! 
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